Tips For Curly Hair

There is a world of difference between working with curly hair and working with straight hair. The techniques that are utilized vary greatly, depending on the curliness or straightness of the hair. But what makes the hair curly or straight? Hair texture is hereditary in most cases, although it is possible for curly-haired parents to have a child with poker-straight hair. The degree of curl depends largely on the shape of the follicle, or the pore from out of which the hair grows. A round follicle will produce straight hair. A follicle that is oval in shape will produce wavy hair. Curly hair occurs when the shape of the follicle is flat.

Cutting curly hair requires a greater degree of skill than cutting straight hair, in my opinion. The problem lies in the fact that when curly hair is wet it lengthens considerably. That means however you cut the hair when it is wet, it will always "shrink" when it is dry. This is true with all hair, but more visible with hair that is curly. Another challenge when cutting curly hair is getting it to lay right. Curly hair often has a propensity to stick out when cut incorrectly. To avoid this, I never cut in the typical straight-across manner. Instead, I use a technique called "notching". When you notch the hair, you get a softer edge, similar to the result you get with a razor cut. Both notching and razor-cutting work well on wavy and curly hair because they don't leave a blunt edge on the hair.

When choosing a haircut, you must decide if you prefer a low or high maintainence style. If you bring the stylist a picture, his or her hair texture should match your own as closely as possible. Generally, curly hair looks best when worn shoulder-length or longer, and with long layers throughout. This is also a lower-maintainence style than many others.

Styling curly hair can also be a bothersome task. To make curly hair easier to work with, it is essential to keep the hair well hydrated. I suggest shampooing with Goldwell Permed and Curly Shampoo and using matching conditioner. These products are specially formulated for curly hair, which has different needs than other hair types. Other good shampoos are Nexxus Botanoil, and Matrix Biolage Hydrating shampoo. There products gently clean the hair without altering the curl patterns of naturally curly or permed hair. Some good conditioners are Nexxus Ensure and Matrix Biolage Detangling Solution. These conditioners are very light and won't weigh down the hair or make the hair look or feel greasy.

Blowdrying curly hair is another challenge. Heat will often make curly hair look dull and frizzy. It's usually best to let the hair air dry. You'll get the maximun amount of curl and avoid heat damage. All you need to do is apply a quarter-sized amount of gel in your hands and work it through from scalp to ends, scrunching the hair in your hands as you go. Any gel will work, but I avoid using maximum hold gels because the hair will get too stiff when it's dry. Paul Mitchell makes some excellent gel, so do manufacturers such as Matrix, Aquage, and Sebastian. Your local salon will most likely carry at least one of these manufacturers.

If you choose to blowdry your hair, always use the lowest heat setting on your dryer. Remove as much moisture as you can by towel-drying before you start to blow it dry. Work a quarter-sized gob of gel or a half-dollar sized gob of mousse throughout the hair first. If the hair is especially dry and prone to frizziness, here's one of my favorite tricks. I mix equal amounts of gel and pomade in my hands and work it through damp hair before drying. It is sometimes helpful to flip your head over and dry the hair upside down. This method gives added volume. My favorite styling technique for curly hair is to set it in large rollers. This is wonderful if you have overly curly hair and you want more of a wave. This method takes more time, but the results are well worth it. After removing the rollers (not curlers, as they are often incorrectly called), break up the curl with your fingers and a slight amount of wax or pomade to add definition and shine.

I always like to finish a curly or wavy style with a shine spray or glossifier. I prefer Rusk Shining spray and Artec's Neroli Sprayshine, which has a wonderful aroma. For defined curls without too much shine, you can use Paul Mitchell Spray Wax, which is a terrific product that is alot of fun to work with.