THE LADY APPLE-TRULY AN HEIRLOOM

Of all the known apple varieties, the Lady apple is apparently the oldest. Some sources say it dates from around the first century A.D., about two thousand years ago when an Etruscan developed it.

In France the Lady apple is known as pomme d'Api, or Api. In America we usually call it the Lady apple. According to Creighton Lee Calhoun, Jr., author of "Old Southern Apples," it is also known as Lady's Finger, and Wax apple.

It was first documented in 1628 during the French Renaissance. In France it was first grown in the garden of Louis XII. Later Louis XIV felt it was the only apple variety that was worth growing.

Lady apple was grown throughout Europe, and was later introduced to North America. It was of particular importance to European settlers in the Northwestern states. There it became a staple.

During Colonial times people considered Lady apple to be a special Christmas treat. This may have been because the apples ripen late in the season and store very well. They're usually available until March.

William Coxe, the famous American fruit expert, grew these. Apparently he really liked them a lot. His records indicate he had 31 trees of this variety in 1828.

He sold barrels of the apples in Philadelphia. He started his orchard in 1794 on his farm on the Delaware River. In 1828 his inventory shows he had 89 varieties and over a thousand trees.

Over the years so many people requested information from him about apples that he eventually published a book on the subject with his notes and observations on the varieties. It was illustrated with his life size drawings of the fruits.

Apparently Lady apple became naturalized in America. Calhoun quotes a source from 1867 indicating this was the case.

According to Calhoun, Lady apple was widely grown in the South. The fruits were exported from America to England after the Civil War where they brought a tremendous price.

Henry David Thoreau also grew this variety.

Lady apple trees are available from nurseries specializing in heirloom varieties. They require another variety for pollination.

The fruits ripen in late fall. In Michigan this occurs in mid to late October. Various orchards grow these, such as the Obstbaum Orchard in Michigan.

Some orchards are U-pick, but the One-Of-A-Kind Apple Orchard in Lansing, NY isn't one of them. Ray Reynolds, the owner, prefers that people call ahead if they're requesting a particular kind of apple like Lady. He grows over 350 kinds of heirloom apples, including Lady, and sells attractive sampler gift boxes containing a dozen different apples with a history of each one.

The Lady apples can also be bought from sources such as Fresh Direct on-line. Growers get a premium price for these tiny beauties. One grower gets $3 per pound.

If you grow Lady apples or buy them in bulk keep them in a dry place at around 35 degrees Fahrenheit.

Lady apples are noted for their very small size. They're around 1½" across. Their shape is rather unique too. They're rather flattened at both ends. The color can vary. Usually they're either green or yellow with lots of brilliant red blushing.

These juicy apples are outstanding with a mildly sweet-tart flavor. They have white, crisp flesh. Lady apples are excellent for eating fresh as dessert and snacks. They're also used for cooked dishes, such as fruit sauces, and garnish. Other favorite uses include fruit and cheese trays and fruit baskets.

Now you can even buy chocolate-covered Lady apples. Grown at the Summit Point Orchards in West Virginia, this gourmet delicacy is available from Gourmet Central (www.gourmetfoods.com). Wouldn't this make a wonderful Valentine's gift for a fruit lover?

Lady apples are supposed to be available canned, but I have yet to find a source.

During a survey at Epicurious.com this was named the most attractive apple by Epicurious tasters.

Yet one of the most traditional uses for this fruit is for decorations, especially for Christmas. The small size makes them perfect for wreaths and similar items. That explains why it is also known as the Christmas apple.

If you plant a standard Lady apple tree, don't be in a hurry to harvest the fruits. According to Calhoun, the trees may take ten years to produce a decent crop. However there's a quicker way to get fruits. Buy one grafted onto dwarf rootstock. The trees tend to bear in alternate years.

Very few apple varieties have the long and interesting history as this unique