Jointing and Assembling

A simple pancake cloth doll really doesn't need to be jointed if it consists of two major pattern pieces with arms and legs attached. A simple joint can be made by a straight stitch across each limb at the torso joint. If the pattern has separate arms and legs, they can be attached with the ladder stitch described in the previous article or caught in the side and lower seams as they are first being put together. Arms are usually connected with the arm seams on each side with the thumbs pointing up; legs can be joined in several ways. When the toes are expected to be pointing left and right, they are sewn in with the leg seams on either side. When the toes are pointing forward, the leg section is arranged so that the seams run up the middle of both front and back. Either way is acceptable and gives the doll a slightly different look. This type of doll leg may also have a sole or toe template.

Arms
Separate arms can be jointed by simply sewing the top of the arm to the proper position on the outer edge of the shoulder. This gives the doll a floppy arm, not very posable. The arm can also be sewn on by hand with the ladder stitch which will allow for the positioning of the arm to be more staple, less floppy, but not movable. When the arm is attached this way, the arm posing is firm and will not move very much.
If you want your doll's arms to be movable there are several ways to join them to the body.
Teddy bear joints:
This is purchased plastic two part jointing discs that are inserted in the upper arm before they are stuffed. The two sections are forced together after stuffing to form a stable movable joint as are found in some teddy bears.
Cotter pin joints:
This is a self made device made with plastic or cardboard discs in each part held together with a cotter pin which is bent apart inside the body.
String jointing:
This type of attaching arms also can be done more than one way. Typically cloth doll designers and makers have a favorite method for string jointing. Judi Ward prefers the method using a large shank button inside the upper arm. Before the stuffing opening in closed, insert a button with the shank outward. She prefers "buttons to cover" with a metal shank snapped together without a fabric cover. The button will not show at all when the arm in connected. Once the opening is sewn together, use a doubled strong cord on a long single point or double pointed jointing needle. This type of needle is about 4 inches long and very substantial. Run the needle through the fabric and the shank of the button, center the thread on the button and tie a single knot. Unthread the needle and re-thread it using both ends of the cord and put needle with both ends of cord through the body shoulder to shoulder. Unthread one strand of cord and run needle and single thread through the other arm button. Now, thread the other cord and run the needle the other way through the button shank. One cord going each way through the button shank, pull cords VERY tight, wrap between arm and body several times and tie a double knot. Cut excess cord ends. This technique may take a little practice to get positioning and cord pulled tight enough. If the arms are too wiggly, or not in correct position, cut off and repeat the jointing until it suits you.

Other designers prefer similar, but slightly different button jointing methods. One of the other ways instructs doll makers to run the cord through the body back and forth, tying the cord together on the beginning side. Other patterns use buttons or beads on the exterior of the limb as a decorative method. The bead or button is visible and becomes a part of the completed doll using fabric covered shank buttons, or fabric covered beads. Beads and buttons may also be painted or left as is. Bead joints are less posable and more floppy similar to the machine or hand straight stitched joint mentioned above.

Legs
Putting the legs on the body is usually very similar to the way arms are jointed. If you want the legs to be posable, a jointing device will be necessary, either a button, teddy bear joint, cotter pin joint or bead joint very much like the systems mentioned for jointing arms. This can allow the doll to sit or stand and a knee joint will allow the leg to bend. The knee is usually jointed by a machine or hand stitching, or a button joint since the movablity is limited to the natural motion of a human leg. (Elbows can also be jointed with beads and buttons.) When the upper and lower limbs are separately moveable, the pattern usually has more pieces to create separate upper and lower sections for jointing.
Stable, non-posable legs.
Some dolls are meant to stand up alone and the legs are hand stitched using the invisible ladder stitch to hold the desirable position. Movement of the leg is not an option. If the doll is stuffed firmly enough and the feet are substantial and flat, it can stand alone, without a doll stand or base. The legs and arms can also be constructed with an internal armature such as wire or chenille stems to create various posing options.

Head
The attachment of the head will depend on the style of torso pattern. If there is a neck tab, the head can be string jointed to allow head movement. The head will have an opening in the back where it was stuffed. If the head is to be stable, push the neck tab firmly into the hole in the back of the head and ladder stitch together. If posing is desired, it can be achieved by using the following jointing method. Using strong cord insert a long jointing needle through the neck tab front to back and unthread one end of the cord. Run the needle up through the top of the head with each end of the cord separately and firmly tie a double knot. This will make a slight dent in the top of head which will be covered with hair. This jointing technique will allow the head to be posed side to side or up and down in a very natural looking manner.
If the pattern does not have a neck tab, it can be sewn together using the ladder stitch or one of the jointing techniques mentioned in the "Arms" section, such as the teddy bear joint, cotter pin joint, or button joint. All of these methods will allow the head to turn around. When all body parts are connected, external shaping of the stuffing and body fabric will help to create a favorable look. Roll and fluff the arms, legs, body, and head to even out lumps and bumps that may show. In the next article I will discuss using armatures and creating stands for dolls that are meant for display.