Unzipped, or The Isaac Mizrahi Show

Unzipped, the 1995 documentary centering on fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi, begins with quiet failure. It is the morning after Mizrahi has shown his latest collection and he has trudged into the bitter cold only to be met with critical disdain in the daily papers. The effect of the negative reviews is devastating to the designer, and he candidly admits this fact, adding, "I just hate anything mediocre about myself." It is no mistake that director Douglas Keeve uses this professional low point as an introduction to Mizrahi and the world he inhabits. As a title card in the film plainly states, this is the story of Mizrahi's next collection, but with the designer's self-doubt laid bare before the camera, the film becomes much more than that. This is an artist's search for creative redemption; an attempt to regain his professional reputation and his belief in his own talent. It's also immensely fun to watch. The film manages to treat the struggles of an artist with utmost respect and seriousness, while still acknowledging the humor and frivolity that are inherent in Mizrahi's personality and work.

After its rather despondent opening, the film quickly transitions into the fast-paced, frenetic style that will serve throughout its course. This isn't the ponderous exploration of a man's life, it is a snapshot of one fashion season and the audience is dragged along for the ride. Mizrahi's mind runs a mile a minute, drawing inspiration from everything he comes across, whether it be the film Call of the Wild or a particularly fashion-savvy Ouija Board, and his life moves just as quickly. Between jaunting off to Paris to select fabrics and footwear, meeting with influential fashion editors, sizing up models to walk his runway, and schmoozing among the fashionistas, it's amazing that Mizrahi has time to sit down and simply create. Just as this thought enters your mind, the answer becomes clear; Isaac Mizrahi is creating all the time. Director Keeve recognizes this and never attempts to reign in his subject. Everything and everyone Mizrahi comes across can find its way into his designs and the best way to illuminate his creative process is to simply trail him with the camera. The result is a random jumble of images and encounters, but the film plays so fast and entertaining, one hardly notices the flimsy structure.

Keeve sets out to record the evolution of Mizrahi's collection, but he is equally concerned with the artistic personality at its source, with its complicated balance of arrogance and self-doubt. Mizrahi isn't an abusive prima donna, but he can play the diva on occasion, particularly when he's under pressure. In one instance, Mizrahi lashes out at his assistant for showing him an article about a rival designer whose new collection is slightly similar to his own, accusing her of deriving pleasure from his pain. He's narcissistic enough to make such an accusation, but his anger is entirely based in insecurity. Like all artists who hope to support themselves financially, Mizrahi's success is dependent on public acceptance and this places him in an incredibly vulnerable position. Whatever liberation Mizrahi finds in fashion design, he still remains trapped by the commercial end of the business and the constant nagging fear of "losing it." There are times where the famous designer seems like nothing so much as a nervous boy desperate to fit in with the popular crowd, searching for the right move that will gain him entry.

On the other hand, Isaac Mizrahi is the life of the party. With all his nervousness and doubt regarding the collection, he somehow carries the film with the ease of a seasoned performer. Whether he is doing dead-on impressions of Eartha Kitt or dancing an impromptu ballet in his studio, Mizrahi is always "on." A devotee of Mary Tyler Moore, the film returns more than once to the old theme song "You're Gonna Make It After All," imbuing Mizrahi with a subtle, yet persistent, aura of optimism. Add to this his contagious sense of humor and it's easy to see why Keeve never veered very far or very long from the force of Mizrahi's personality. His charisma is off the charts and it's clear that if he had not found success in fashion design, he would have been famous in some other regard. This is not a man who can be kept quiet.

Mizrahi is truly the star of the film, but Keeve has fun with the fashion world as well. The show itself is a spectacle, exploding in a burst of color from the grainy black and white film used up until the big event. Backstage is a swirl of chaotic energy; last minute adjustments are made, models are groomed, attitudes are barely kept in check, while Mizrahi tries to hold it all together. Several celebrities make cameo appearances, from Roseanne to Richard Gere, and of course the supermodels can't be overlooked. Mizrahi is among the upper echelon of designers, meaning he gets the top models, and Keeve isn't afraid to show the ugly side of a few famous personalities. All of this makes for great gossipy entertainment, and whatever the deeper significance of the film, this should not be underestimated. Unzipped is an interesting character study and a great behind-the-scenes look at fashion design, and even creative pursuits in general, but it is also an unrelenting good time. As the credits roll, you'll feel as though you've attended a great party and you'll only wish you could spend more time with the hilarious host.