Birds of Paradise

In 1522, the surviving ship of Magellan's ill-fated circumnavigation, the Victoria, originally captained by Mendoza, returned safely to Spain, a feat that conveyed convincing evidence that the world was indeed round. The Victoria carried gifts from a ruler of the Molucca Islands, which lie west of the island of New Guinea and are also home to the fabled Bird of Paradise. Apparently the sailors had traded red cloth, hatchets and linen for cloves, mace, nutmeg, cinnamon and sandalwood. In addition, brilliantly coloured feathers were included in the trade. Europeans could not believe that such beauty could not have come from anywhere but Paradise, hence the name, Bird of Paradise. This belief gave rise to colourful stories about birds that remained in the air from their first flight until they died. It was said that the female would lay her eggs on the male's back and hatch them as he flew.

That being said, a glimpse of the bird of paradise can easily convert the most jaded naturalists among us into fervent birders. You may be entering country that was first broached by outsiders only in 1933 when Mick Leahy and his brother Dan along with Jim Taylor struggled west from Kanantu a mountain outpost on the edge of the Eastern Highlands within spitting distance of the headwaters of the Ramu, which flows north-east and empties on the north coast and slightly to the west of the Markham, which flows south-east and has its mouth at Lae.

The Bird of Paradise is referred to as an arena bird by birders because the males establish territories, which birders call leks, which serve as a dancing and display area. Several Birds of Paradise are considered endangered and all species are quite well protected by the government of Papua New Guinea as well as by the Wigmen tribes and others who use the plumage to enhance their ceremonial costumes. In the United States the Bronx, San Antonio, Los Angeles, San Diego and Honolulu Zoos participate in Bird of Paradise breeding programs.

Ambua Lodge

At Ambua Lodge you will be greeted with an orchid menu and a bird menu. In the vicinity of the lodge, lie breeding grounds for 216 species of birds including 13 Birds of Paradise. In addition, if you are minded, you can pursue over 100 orchid species or partake of an adventure tour.

Highlanders

On the first morning, we were up while it was still dark and mighty cold outside for a place that lay less than six degrees from the Equator. We set off at first light and were soon spellbound with the true birders among us heaving several sighs of appreciation. We were rewarded with glimpses of the Superb Bird of Paradise. The male is black with an iridescent blue wedge-shaped breast shield, which is permanently extended according to the book but we were not that close. It was probably forty or fifty feet above us and had this annoying habit of flying out of sight and then reappearing. At the end of the morning, we were all famished and reluctanltly decided that we needed a break.

Pacific Islands Table of Contents