Ocracoke Island: A Magical Adventure - Page: 3
To fully explain what Ocracoke is like, it is necessary for me to include some introductory information about its location and history. Ocracoke is one of many barrier islands in a chain called the Outer Banks. The Outer Banks are located on the Atlantic Ocean in the northeastern and central coastal region of North Carolina. Each island is separated from the mainland by one of several large bodies of brackish water called sounds. Pamlico Sound is by far the largest of these associated with the Outer Banks. All of the Outer Banks islands are very fragile strips of sand clinging stubbornly to their position off the mainland. They are constantly changing and slowly moving as a result of both the frequent storms that pass through the area as well as the constant erosion and redepositing of sand by the tides. For me there is a mystique to these barrier islands.
The history of the Outer Banks certainly adds to the area's mystique. It was on one of these islands that Sir Walter Raleigh established what was the first permanent English settlement in North America (a settlement now called the Lost Colony since all its inhabitants vanished mysteriously - their true fate is still unknown). The legendary pirate, Blackbeard, also called these islands and the waterways between them his home. He briefly terrorized colonial inhabitants of this area in the early eighteenth century before being killed near Ocracoke. And of course Orville and Wilbur Wright took their legendary first flight (effectively giving birth to modern aviation) from a sand dune at Kitty Hawk, NC on Bodie Island.
Finally there is the nature of the Outer Banks which adds to the mystique – the pounding surf, the constant and usually gentle breeze, the salt marshes, the Pamlico, Albemarle, and Currituck Sounds, the sea gulls, the sea turtles. I could go on forever.
Of all the Outer Banks islands Ocracoke is the one that is most special to me. For me it is a magical place. Simply thinking of this island can help move me into a more gentle and relaxing state of mind – free of my usual worries. What I love most about Ocracoke is that it is one of those rare places where modern human behavior and wilderness seem to exist in near perfect unison.
None of the Outer Banks islands are exactly easy to reach, as getting to them requires a drive through a sparsely populated and rural landscape. The closest regional airports with jet service are at least a two-hour drive to the most accessible towns on the Outer Banks. Ocracoke is by far the most difficult of these barrier islands to reach. It is reachable only by ferry, by private boat, or by small private plane. A traveler has to be serious about going to Ocracoke. One cannot just casually drop in for a quick visit since Ocracoke is not on the way to any other destination except maybe paradise.
Traveling to Ocracoke by ferry is by far the most popular means of reaching the island and I recommend it highly. There are two separate ferries that make daily trips between small soundside towns on the mainland of North Carolina and the town of Ocracoke on Ocracoke Island. If you chose to catch one of these ferries to Ocracoke be prepared for between a two and three hour non-stop boat ride and don't forget to make reservations as especially in the summer months these ferries tend to fill up quickly (see Steve's Travel Tips for more detailed information). It is during these ferry rides that I find myself succumbing to the beauty of the vast Pamlico Sound and the salt marshes, islands, and wildlife that are part of its landscape.
If a long ferry ride is not appealing to you there is one more option. You can drive through rural northeastern North Carolina or Southeastern Virginia and then drive almost the entire length of the Outer Banks to the southern end of Pea Island and take the forty-five minute car ferry ride from Hatteras, NC to Ocracoke. Whichever route you choose you are in for an adventure that just adds to the charm of the visit.
The island of Ocracoke itself is a thin strip of land measuring approximately 16 miles in length. At the southwestern part of the island is the small 900-acre village of Ocracoke. It is tucked against the Pamlico Sound and it is the only town on the island. Before the days of tourism, Ocracoke was chiefly a fishing village and the fishing village influence is still evident here. In fact, today Ocracoke can best be described as a fishing village with an eye for aesthetic charm. There is so much that makes this village and this island special that it is hard to know where to begin.
For starters, the entire island, with the exception of the 900-acre village, is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore – a national park that covers sections of several Outer Banks islands. Thanks to the protection provided to it by the National Park System, Ocracoke remains ideal habitat for many plant, animal, bird, and marine species. Many of these species, such as the loggerhead turtle and the piping plover are seriously dwindling in numbers and Ocracoke serves as one of the few remaining virtually undisturbed coastal areas that still provide safe nesting grounds for them.
There is no beachfront property on Ocracoke (as the entire beach is part of the national park) so do not expect to find a seaside cottage or an oceanfront hotel room. If you usually prefer oceanfront locations believe me you will hardly even notice the lack of such accommodations. There are many great bed and breakfasts, cottages, and inns in the village of Ocracoke and they all have their own special charm. If you absolutely must stay on the water you can stay at one of the soundside establishments instead.
Another unique feature of Ocracoke is that a visitor can experience the whole town without spending any time in a car. The closest beach access is about a mile from the town of Ocracoke and it can be reached by car, bike or on foot. I strongly recommend that if you do spend some time on Ocracoke that you rent a bike from one of the many rental shops in town. Almost everything you would want to do is easily reachable by bicycle. Riding a bike for the length of your stay will not only add to the unique nature of your visit by allowing you to experience the island more personally. I have found that there is a lot to be said for traveling throughout an island like Ocracoke on the seat of a bicycle - exercising the body, calming the mind, and breathing deeply the fresh seaside air.
An even more unique and alluring feature of Ocracoke is that all businesses on the island are locally owned and operated. The town has succesfully maintained an effort to keep chain and franchise establishments off the island. This gives everything in town a uniquely local flare. There are no McDonalds or Wendys eating establishments. You will not find any Gap clothing stores. There are no Holiday Inn motels. And there are no Wal-Mart or Target Department stores. Instead you find places like Howard’s Pub, The Light Keepers Guesthouse, Deepwater Pottery & Uniquities, Island Artworks, the Island Ragpicker and many more. Friendly locals that know the community and care about the island operate them all.
Ocracoke has become a popular vacation spot but because of its remoteness and due to the foresight of the National Park System and the town’s government it remains a virtually unspoiled gem. Summer is the most popular time to visit the island. Travelers that want the benefits of warm weather without the summertime crowds might enjoy visiting in late spring (May) or early fall (September and early October - check weather forecasts when planning fall trips to coastal North and South Carolina as this is also hurricane season). The difficulty in getting to Ocracoke just adds to the adventurous feel of being there. Once you are there it is well worth the trip.
I have done my best to explain what it is about Ocracoke that effects me so positively and I hope that I have done this beautiful island justice. I cannot wait to return to Ocracoke to explore in more detail the special allure of this magical place. When I do I will be sure to record my experiences in my journal and here at Suite101.
Bibliography of Sources Consulted for Article Research
Garber, Pat. Ocracoke Odyssey: A Naturalist's Reflections on Her Home by the Sea. Asheboro, NC: Down Home Press, 1999.
Ocracoke Civic & Business Association Web Site, http://www.ocracokevillage.com.
Ocracoke Civic & Business Association - Email Conversations with staff - August 24, 2002 and September 11, 2002.
Related Suite101 Articles:
Cedar Island: A Photographic Journey by Thomas Martin, Contributing Editor - Caring for the Soul
Ocracoke Bound by Julie Anne Parks, Contributing Editor - Regional Humor (an arichived topic)
Steve’s Carolinas Travel Tips
Getting There:
Cedar Island Ferry - Take Highway 70 North from Morehead City, NC to near Sealevel, NC and take Highway 12 North to the Cedar Island Ferry.
Swan Quarter Ferry - Take Highway 264 East from Greenville, NC to Swan Quarter and take Highway 45 into Swan Quarter and to the ferry access.
Hatteras Ferry - Take either Highway 158 East from Elizabeth City, NC or Highway 64 East from Rocky Mount to the Outer Banks and travel South on Highway 12 for the entire length of Bodie and Pea Islands to the ferry access in Hatteras, NC.
North Carolina Ferry Travel Ferry Schedules, Reservations and Toll Information
Airports - if traveling to the area by air here are some airports to consider:
Norfolk International Airport - Norfolk, VA
Pitt-Greenville Airport - Greenville, NC
Wilmington International Airport - Wilmington, NC
Further Information:
Ocracoke Civic & Business Association has a very comprehensive web site detailing what there is to do while on Ocracoke Island.
Cape Hatteras National Seashore - The National Park Service offers this site detailing the activities and facilities available in this park which stretches for close to 70 miles across three Outer Banks islands.
Other web sites of interest:
Island Pathways
Ocracoke Island.com
*All images included in this article are courtesy of www.coastalguide.com and can be found in their original form at http://www.coastalguide.com/download/fre...
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