California Sangiovese — Reviews
Part 3 in a Series
THE ITALIAN MODEL1997 Giorgio Primo Chianti Classico DOCG 14% $29.99
This was clearly the wine to beat in our review of nearly 30 California Sangioveses. A superb example of Chianti Classico, it showed a richness, brightness, depth and texture not often found in California Sangioveses. Gorgeous nose of violets, dried cherry and anise leads to an attractive sweet fruitiness on the palate, but leaves with a dry, softly tannic finish. Outstanding wine.
We found no California example which bore direct comparison to the above example. Not to say they are all inferior - they're just not quite the same. A few actually outperformed the Chianti Classico in the opinions of our tasters.
If the bad news is that only a handful of California Sangioveses approaches the high standards of Tuscany's best Chianti Classicos, the good news is the rest are not that far behind. Sangiovese is still a boutique wine in California, with a narrow, but gradually expanding audience. Those who make it have not yet been caught up in the kind of high volume production techniques that have given us $6 Cabs, Merlots, and Chardonnays; California Sangiovese is still very much a winemaker's wine.
One thing brought into clear relief by this tasting was the search for style. It was not difficult to tell which winemakers were applying the techniques commonly used in Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon production to this less familiar varietal. But a group of winemakers seems to be emerging that has come to terms with the uniqueness of Sangiovese; their wines more closely resemble each other.
Certain vineyard locations - such as the east side of Napa Valley - seem to produce Sangiovese fruit which needs little or no help from blending varietals; but most current California Sangioveses are blends.
CALIFORNIA SANGIOVESES WE THINK YOU WILL ENJOY; Listed in ascending order.
Pedroncelli 1997 Single Vineyard Selection Sangiovese, Dry Creek Valley; 13.5% alcohol; $14.
Very dark ruby, heavily extracted. Shy nose suggests deeper flavors of dried currants, leather, minerals, licorice and stewed fruit. Very full on the palate for a Sangiovese.
Orfila 1997 Sangiovese "Di Collina," San Pasqual Valley; 13.3% alcohol; $20
Here is a Sangiovese that will appeal to Zinfandel lovers. Deep ruby color, highly concentrated. Warm, plummy nose leads to rich, sweet-edged flavors of red fruits and vanilla. A substantial wine, best paired with roasted and grilled meats.
1998 Cá del Solo Sangiovese California; 13.4% alcohol; $17.
Deep ruby color. Nose of peppery raspberries and red fruits. Very bright and lively aspect on the palate which some might find austere. Soft tannins on the finish. Italianate in style, which means to say that this wine is most attractive when enjoyed as a complement to food. Made from the Sangiovetto clone and blended with a "substantial percentage" of Syrah. This wine will be very much at home with typical south Italian dishes based on tomatoes and garlic.
1996 Sausal Sangiovese Alexander Valley; 13% alcohol, $15.
Medium garnet, very clear and lovely in the glass. Warm, truffley nose of violets, cherries and fresh prunes. Integrated flavors with a slight bitter almond aspect on the palate and finish. Softly seductive and delicious. Unusual depth for a 100% Sangiovese. Estate grown. A good value.
1997 Pepi Sangiovese "Two-Heart Canopy" California; 14% alcohol, $14.
Medium garnet, clear color. Attractive nose of spicy ripe cherries and cedar. An elegant and balanced wine, slightly rounder than many California Sangioveses, due to the addition of 5% Syrah. A very lovely wine and very good value.
1998 La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi Sangiovese California; 13.5% alcohol, $22.95
90% Sangiovese, the other 10% Charbono, Teroldego, Zinfandel and Refosco. Good nose; attractive, fresh and vibrant red fruit, tea, and citrus flavors; easy drinking with very soft tannins. A lovely Sangiovese.
1997 Iron Horse Vineyards Sangiovese Alexander Valley Proprietor Grown; 14.5% alcohol, $22.
Brooding, perfumey nose. Surprisingly light on the palate for a 14.5% wine. Attractive sweet, rich dark cherry and pomegranate fruit on the palate. Dry finish with soft tannins lends a welcome structural element. Very good Sangiovese. Recommended.
1998 Gabrielli Sangiovese Redwood Valley Mendocino County; 13.5% alcohol, $18.
An intense wine with a beautiful deep ruby color and lovely sweet aromas. Rich flavors of ripe currants, spicy cherry, and vanilla. Delicious and juicy wine with brightness on the palate and a dry finish. Recommended.
1997 Benessere Sangiovese Napa Valley; 13.9% alcohol, $26.
This is the flagship wine of the Benessere Winery and it's clear that a great deal of care went into its production. Blended with small amounts of Merlot and Syrah to fill it out and add complexity, but not so much as to confuse its Sangiovese character. Attractive sour cherry nose leads to flavors of anise and unripe raspberries. A smooth wine with a bright, palate cleansing finish. Italianate in style.
1997 Monte Volpe Vineyards Sangiovese Mendocino County; 14.4% alcohol, $16.
92% Sangiovese, 7% Dolcetto, 1% Montepulciano. A stylish and very Italianate Sangiovese. Clean drinking and bright on the palate. Sweet and focussed flavors of black cherry, raspberry, and spice lead to a long, dry finish. Italian in style, but the fruit shouts California. Very good value.
1997 Valley of the Moon Sangiovese Sonoma County; 13.5% alcohol, $20.
97% Sangiovese, 3% Syrah. Medium ruby color. Brooding aroma requires considerable aeration for the nose to develop and flavors to come into focus, but well worth the wait. Delicious flavors or dried cherry, pomegranate and spice. A delicious Sangiovese.
1998 Flora Springs Sangiovese Napa Valley; 14% alcohol, $16.
100% Sangiovese. Attractive, aromatic nose of spicy red fruits with flavors of slightly tart cherry and cranberry. Very agreeable on the palate, with soft but balanced acidity and a dry finish. A fine Sangiovese and excellent companion to roasted or grilled meats.
1997 Castelletto Sangiovese Temecula; 12.5% alcohol, $18.
A pleasant surprise from Riverside County. Stable nose of sweet, ripe cherries, plums and clove. Light on the palate, with flavors consistent with aromas. Very good flavor and body, especially considering the modest alcohol level and moderate extraction. Clean, very fruity, straightforward, and unsullied by excessive extraction or overoaking. A superior Sangiovese. Recommended.
CALIFORNIA'S FINEST SANGIOVESES
1996 Mosby Sangiovese Santa Barbara County; 13% alcohol, $18.
Beautiful, clear color. Focussed aromas and flavors of anise, cinnamon, raspberries and ripe cherry. Attractive core of red fruits on nose and palate leading to a very dry and long finish. A superior and polished Sangiovese from a winemaker who has arguably worked as long and hard as anyone in his quest to perfect this varietal in California. Splendid effort!
1998 Chameleon Cellars Sangiovese North Coast; 14.1% alcohol, $19.
Chameleon Cellars continues to impress us as one of California's most dependable producers of Italian styled wines. The 1998 Sangiovese is a work of art. It offers excellent balance and velvety tannins in an unusually aromatic wine with a long finish. Delicious flavors of sweet pomegranate, cherry, plum, mint, and tea. Fuller on the palate than many Sangioveses, due to 18% other varietals (Dolcetto, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon). Top Sangiovese in the most recent BTI tasting of 20 examples. Highly recommended.
1998 Miner Sangiovese Mendocino; 13% alcohol, $20
Inviting, deep, sweet nose. This wine has it all: rich cherry and cranberry fruit, smoke, warm spice, and light sage in a beautifully balanced, mellow, seductive wine. An exceptional Sangiovese. Highly recommended.
1997 Silverado Sangiovese Napa Valley; 13.8% alcohol, $20.
94% Sangiovese, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Beautiful, perfumed nose of ripe raspberries, dried cherry, old rose and sage. Round and balanced, with vibrant, focussed flavors and a long finish. One of California's most attractive Sangioveses. Highly recommended.
1998 Viansa Sangiovese "Piccolo" California; 13.5% alcohol, $22.
Viansa makes two splendid Sangioveses; Piccolo is the lighter and softer of the two; Thalia will be reviewed in our next article. This wine is a member of one of California's most extensive lineups of Italian varietal wines, and is sold directly from Viansa's website. Fresh, attractive nose of raspberry, ripe cherry, violets, brown spices, and vanilla with focussed flavors. A polished wine with perfect balance of fruit, acid, and soft tannins. A delightful note of burnt caramel is noticed on the long finish. One of California's finest Sangioveses. Highly recommended
1997 Pietra Santa Sangiovese Cienega Valley; 14.1% alcohol, $20.
Very rich, deep nose of black cherry, rhubarb, plum and spice with floral notes and bitter almond on the finish. Focussed flavors flavors are forward, but not sweet. A wine of great character and rich texture. One of California's finest Sangioveses. Highly recommended.
1997 Showket Vineyards Sangiovese Napa Valley; 14.5% alcohol, $35.
This remarkable wine is the first and only wine released from Showket Vineyards to date and represents a spectacular premiere offering. The Showket Vineyards were established in 1988, supplying fruit to Caymus, Dalla Valle, Shafer and Merryvale. This Showket Sangiovese was the only 100% California Sangiovese that our tasting panel unanimously found to be in league with top Chianti Classico. Layers of juicy flavors and aromas inform this rich, polished wine: dusty cherries, pomegranate, plums, and warm spice. This wine delivers a depth, complexity and richness rarely found in Italian Chianti, but which has become a hallmark of high end California wine. Top Sangiovese of nearly 30 examples tasted. Very enthusiastically recommended. Limited quantity.
Next week: California Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon Blends
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